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Boa Constrictor

Boa Constrictors

  • Life Span: There are documented cases of boas living in captivity for longer than 40 years. Generally 20-30 years.

  • Size: 6-9 feet

  • Housing: For a baby boa a 30"x 12" (20 gallon) would be adequate to help your little guy feel secure. As your boa grows so will its housing requirements.  

  • Hide Box: Offering a hide box will help your new boa feel secure in their environment

  • Temperature:  Your new boas house should have a warm side and a cool side.  The cool side of the cage, the temperature should not drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit.  The warm side should remain 85 degrees Fahrenheit with a basking spot of 90 degrees Farenheit. You can provide the basking heat by means of a heating pad.  Boas like this, they will coil over the heating pad to get belly heat.

  • Lighting: Boas do NOT require UVB lighting but it will not hurt them if you choose to use it.

  • Bedding: There is a variety of substrates that are sufficient for use with boas.  These options range from newspaper to fir and cypress barks.  When using a substrate the cage will need to be spot cleaned regularly.  When using newspaper, paper or carpet the paper should be changed each time you clean.

  • Feeding: Never feed a snake a meal that is larger than the snakes mid body size.  When you purchase a snake from us we will tell you their feeding schedule and what we are currently feeding them.  Juvenile boas should be fed every 7-10 days. Adult boas (over 2 years of age) can be fed every 10-14 days however can be fed more or less.

  • Water: A water bowl is necessary. This gives your boa a place to drink and soak. 

  • Humidity: Should be 60% - 70% this can be gauged with a hygrometer

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Carpet Python

Carpet Python

Scientific Name: MORELIA SPILOTA

  • Life Span: 20 years or longer

  • Size: 5-9 feet

  • Housing: Adult snakes are normally housed in an enclosure approximately 4' long x 2' deep x 1' high.  A 3'x2'x2' would be sufficient for smaller carpet pythons. Carpet pythons are semi-arboreal and do like to climb.  It is a good idea to have some kind of branch or perch available.

  • Hide box: Since carpet pythons are semi-arboreal they normally would "hide" in a tree.  Having a hide box is optional.

  • Temperature: You need a cool side and a warm side for Carpet Pythons.  The cool side should not get lower than 72 degrees Fahrenheit, while the warm side can be up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

  • Lighting: No lighting requirements.  We have heat lights on our cages to maintain the heating requirements that the carpets need.  Also a light is helpful to maintain visual on your animal while cleaning and to see if there are any issues.

  • Bedding:  There are a variety of substrates that work really well for Carpet Pythons.  Anything from Newspaper to aspen or cypress wood.  

  • Feeding:  Never feed a snake a meal that is larger than the snakes mid body size.  When you purchase a snake from us we will tell you their feeding schedule and what we are currently feeding them.  Juvenile Carpet Pythons should be fed every 7-10 days. Adults (over 2 years of age) can be fed every 10-14 days however can be fed more or less. 

  • Water: Carpet Pythons need a water bowl.  A large water dish is preferable to keep the humidity levels up and for soaking purposes.  Carpets will sometimes soak prior to a shed.

  • Humidity: Around 50%

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White Lipped Python

White Lipped Pythons

 Scientific Name: LEIOPYTHON ALBERTISII 

 

 

  • Life Span: 30 years

  • Size: 6-9 feet

  • Housing: For a baby white lipped python a 30"x 12" (20 gallon tank) would be adequate to help your little guy feel secure. As he grows so will its housing requirements.  An adult white lipped python would require upwards of a 5' x 3' enclosure.

  • Hide Box: Offering a hide box will help your new friend feel secure in their environment. White lipped Pythons do like to climb, we recommend branches for climbing.

  • Temperature:  As with most reptiles their house should have a warm side and a cool side. The cool side of the cage, the temperature should not drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The warm side should remain 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit with a basking spot of 92 degrees Farenheit. 

  • Lighting: Make sure to avoid direct sunlight with your snake enclosure this can cause your cage to overheat.

  • Bedding: There is a variety of substrates that are sufficient.  You can use newspaper or paper towels.  Additional substrate options are coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, cypress mulch or bark, choosing a substrate that holds humidity well is ideal.  When using a substrate the cage will need to be spot cleaned regularly.  When using newspaper, paper or carpet the paper should be changed each time you clean.

  • Feeding: Never feed a snake a meal that is larger than the snakes mid body size.  When you purchase a snake from us we will tell you their feeding schedule and what we are currently feeding them.  Juvenile feeding schedule should be every 7-10 days. Adult (over 2 years of age) can be fed every 10-14 days however can be fed more or less.

  • Water: A water bowl is necessary. This gives a place to drink and soak, also helps to maintain adequate humidity. 

  • Humidity: Should be 75% - 90% this can be gauged with a hygrometer (misting daily will be necessary for White lipped pythons).

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Green Tree Python

Green Tree Pythons

Scientific Name: MORELIA VIRIDIS​

  • Life Span: 15-20 years

  • Size: 4-6 feet

  • Housing: Juveniles should be housed in a smaller enclosure approximately 12"x12"x12" is sufficient with an adequate perch. Adults should have at the least 2' x 2' x 2' also with an adequate perch.

  • Hide box: As their name suggests Green Tree pythons mainly stay in trees.  They will not require a hide box as they will stay on the perch.  But having multiple perch options in the warm area and cool area is an excellent idea.

  • Temperature: Green Tree Pythons are a tropical snake and seldom have temperatures lower than 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The basking temperature should be between 86 and 88 degrees Fahrenheit with a cool area of 78 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

  • Lighting: No lighting requirements.  We have heat lights on our cages to maintain the heating requirements that the Green Tree Pythons need.  Also a light is helpful to maintain visual on your animal while cleaning and to see if there are any issues.

  • Bedding:  There are a variety of substrates that work really well for Green Tree Pythons.  Anything from Newspaper to aspen or cypress wood.  Having a substrate such as cypress or coconut will also help you maintain their humidity requirements.

  • Feeding:  Never feed a snake a meal that is larger than the snakes mid body size.  When you purchase a snake from us we will tell you their feeding schedule and what we are currently feeding them.  Juvenile Green Tree Pythons should be fed every 5-7 days. Adults (over 2 years of age) can be fed every 10-14 days however can be fed more or less. 

  • Water: Having a large water bowl in the enclosure will help you maintain the Green Tree Pythons humidity requirements as well as giving them an adequate place to drink from.  Misting several times a day will help to maintain humidity requirements as well as make sure that your Green Tree Python doesn't get dehydrated.

  • Humidity: 40% - 70% we accomplish this by having automatic misters on our Green Tree Pythons as well as a large water bowl within the enclosure.

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Crested Gecko

Scientific Name: CORRELOPHUS CILIATUS

  • Life Span: 15-20 years

  • Size: can get more than 12" long

  • Housing: Crested Geckos are arboreal and live in rain forest environments.  They like a lot of clutter in their enclosures to give adequate spaces to hide and climb.  They will need to be misted frequently to achieve the humidity requirements that they need to survive a happy and healthy life. 

  • Temperature: Crested Geckos are very happy with room temperature, 72 - 78 degrees during the day is perfect temperatures for Crested Geckos with a night drop as low as 69 - 74 degrees. Anything over 80 degrees is lethal, no heat lights are necessary or heating mats. 

  • Lighting: No lighting requirements.  

  • Bedding:  There are a variety of substrates that work really well for Crested Geckos. We use a layered method for filtrations. Hydro balls on the bottom, Repti soil in the middle and Sphagnam moss on top.  This keeps the humidity high and allows for drainage. 

  • Feeding:  Crested Geckos eat a complete diet of Pangea or other brands.  We feed our Crested Geckos Pangea and give them a cup every other day, while misting their enclosure. Pangea is a complete diet which includes all vitamins and insects that are required to have a happy healthy gecko.  You can also feed crickets and other live insects a few times a week. 

  • Water: We keep a water bowl in the enclosure to assist with humidity.  Crested Geckos will not drink from the water bowl, it is said that they are unable to see standing water.  It is essential to mist the entire enclosure at least every other day.  This maintains the appropriate humidity but also gives the Crested Gecko water droplets to drink (like with a fresh rain in the rain forest). 

  • Humidity: 60% - 80% 

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